The Haiku Stairs, also known as ‘Stairway to Heaven’ in Oahu, make for one of the most popular, exciting, and controversial hikes in all of Hawaii. People travel from all over the world just for this one hike. And, it’s easy to see why! The views from the top are amazing. The problem? Hiking the stairs is technically illegal. However, there is a way to legally make it to the top of the stairs. This post will explain how to legally hike the back way up to the top of the Haiku Stairs in Oahu, Hawaii.
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About the Stairway to Heaven
The stairs were originally built in the 1940’s by the US Navy. The stairway leads to an old radio transmitter at the top of the mountain. The stairs were open to the public until the 1980’s when they were damaged by a storm and deemed unsafe. Now, the hike is illegal and there are guards posted at the bottom to deter people from trying to enter. Police often patrol the area and the guard will call them if they do happen to see you. If you are caught on the stairs you can be fined up to $1,000.
Don’t forget to check out my other post: Five Great Things to Do on Oahu, Hawaii.
There have been many discussions over the years about whether to upgrade and repair the Haiku Stairs or to simply tear them down. This, paired with the fact that the hike is illegal, only seems to make it that much more appealing to many adventurers out there. However, locals aren’t so enthusiastic about it. The hike being illegal (and the presence of the guard) means that people must trespass on local residents’ properties in order to get to the beginning of the stairs. This (obviously) has caused many of the locals to become extremely frustrated with those attempting the hike.
Haiku Stairs: The Legal Back Way
First things first: hiking the legal back way (the Moanalua Valley trail) is a much longer, more difficult, and more strenuous hike than the stairs themselves. The trail is 10+ miles round trip and can take anywhere from 7 to 10 hours to hike. However, I will say that the views along the way (and the fact that it’s legal) were definitely worth it. With that said, here are some things to keep in mind:
- Hiking the legal back way will take you to the same exact viewpoint at the top as the actual Haiku Stairs would.
- Parts of the hike are almost completely straight up and you must pull yourself up with a rope. This can be very difficult when the ground is muddy (which happens often).
- Stepping onto the stairs at all once you make it to the top is completely illegal.
I highly recommend hiking the legal back way if you’re determined to see the Haiku Stairs. Angering all of the locals plus the risk of being fined is just not worth it. Hike the legal back way, enjoy a lunch at the radio tower, get some photos at the top of the stairs, and then head back down.
Hiking the Moanalua Valley Trail
To hike the legal back way to the top of the Haiku Stairs you’ll start at Moanalua Valley Neighborhood Park. You don’t need to arrive super early to do the hike but it does increase your chances of finding a parking spot. The Moanalua Valley trail is not as popular as the actual stairs but it does still get quite a few visitors. We arrived just before 7AM and were one of the first ones there.
You’ll find the beginning of the trail past the parking lot where you will see a metal gate. The first few miles of the trail are honestly very straightforward and easy with very little elevation gain. There are several forks in the path along the way but they always connect again further down the trail. No need to worry about taking the wrong one.
When you make it to the sign shown above, continue walking for about another 30-40 feet. Then, you will see a pathway off to the left which goes across the riverbed. This is the trail that takes you to Moanalua Ridge. After you cross the riverbed you should see a large tree branch that has the words “Middle Ridge” carved into it. That’s how you know you’ve made it to the right spot.
Moanalua Ridge
Once you make it to Moanalua Ridge the trail becomes increasingly more steep. The ascend continues for what will feel like forever. This is where you’ll really feel the burn! Always be on the lookout for uncovered roots and low-hanging tree branches. They can be great for helping you get a grip but they can also trip you up very easily.
Parts of the trail are extremely narrow with a very steep drop off on either side (most parts of the trail are only 3 feet wide or less). If it’s very windy when you’re hiking you may have to crouch down as you walk the trail just to keep the wind from blowing you off the mountain (seriously, the wind is no joke). You’ll be hiking for hours and there will be times when you feel like the trail will never end. But, as soon as you can spot the radio tower in the distance, you know you’re almost there!
Don’t forget to check out my other post: The Ultimate Guide to Solo Hiking.
Always focus on staying safe more than anything but don’t forget to stop and take in the gorgeous views along the way. The views of the mountains, the city, and the ocean from the top made this hike way more than worth it.
Stairway to Heaven: Views From the Top
Once you finally make it to the top, you’ll be rewarded with amazing views of Oahu from above. If you’re lucky, you’ll have clear skies and a great view of the ocean, the city, and the mountains surrounding you. You’ll likely encounter a few other hikers at the radio tower hanging out and talking about their hike up. Step inside the radio tower for a lunch break and give your feet (and legs, and arms, and lungs) a rest before you head back down.
Hiking Back Down
We actually hiked up the legal back way and then hiked down the actual stairs. While I can’t actually recommend this because.. well, it’s illegal, I will say that we were glad we did it this way. Those who choose to hike up the stairs typically have to start hiking extremely early in the morning, trespass in one way or another, and must sneak past the guard at the bottom of the stairs. This is not easy to do in the dead of the morning while it’s still dark outside.
There are tons of maps online with the exact paths marked for you to follow should you choose to sneak in this way. However, we followed these maps on the way down in broad daylight and we still got lost! Other hikers have tied ribbons onto tree branches in an attempt to steer you in the right direction but it can still be pretty hard to follow.
Looking back, I don’t regret illegally hiking down the stairs. It had been so high on my bucket list for so long! However, I did feel like a complete jerk for the fact that we had to run through someone’s backyard once we made it to the bottom. I completely understand why the locals get so frustrated with all of the hikers. The views along the Moanalua Valley Trail and the views from the top of the mountain were more than worth it. Hiking the actual stairs was not necessary for anything more than a bucket list check.
Things to keep in mind:
- Should you choose to hike back down the actual stairs you will have to sneak past the guard. If you do, you risk getting fined up to $1,000.
- There are sections of the stairs that are severely damaged from previous storms. Many steps are loose and some are completely missing. The stairs do not get routine maintenance and haven’t been repaired for almost 20 years now.
- The stairs are very narrow and it can be quite difficult to maneuver. Especially if you encounter other hikers along the way! You may have to climb over the rail and hang off the side just to let them pass.
- Locals who live near the bottom of the stairs do not tolerate people who they know are attempting the hike. They absolutely will call the police.
- Once you make it to the bottom of the stairs you will be trespassing pretty much any way that you choose to go. You will have to get an Uber back to your car if you are parked at the Moanalua Valley Park.
Stairway to Heaven Packing List
Hiking the Moanalua Valley Trail up to the Haiku Stairs is not an easy hike. You’ll definitely want to be prepared before you go! These are some things you’ll want to bring with you:
1. Plenty of water.
I promise you’ll want more than just one small bottle of water for this hike. One great option would be to bring a camelpak.
2. Good hiking shoes.
You’ll want a decent pair of hiking shoes with good grip for this hike. Don’t forget to also bring an extra pair of socks! Dry socks for the return hike can make all the difference.
3. Light, breathable layers.
It can be pretty chilly in the mornings and it can definitely get extremely windy at the top of the mountains so you’ll want to bring a light jacket that you can throw on whenever you need it.
4. Snacks / small lunch.
It’s a long hike and you will get hungry along the way. Bring some snacks (granola bars, dried fruits, etc.) for the hike and a small lunch for when you make it to the top.
5. Gloves.
Gloves came in so handy when we had to pull ourselves up the muddy ropes. Just make sure you have a pair with good grip. There was a guy in front of us that was really struggling to get up the rope without a pair of gloves, you definitely don’t want that to be you!
6. Camera.
I would recommend bringing a GoPro so you can easily take photos or shoot video along the way without the bulk of a DSLR camera. I do not recommend bringing a drone for this hike as it does get extremely windy.
Don’t forget to be respectful and not leave any trash along the way. Anything that you bring with you should be leaving with you as well. We brought a bag with us for trash that we found along the way.
Other Great Hikes on Oahu
- Lanikai Pillbox Hike
- Olomana Trail
- Diamond Head Hike
- Manoa Falls Trail
- Makapuu Lighthouse Hike
- Crouching Lion Hike
- Koko Crater Trail
- Seven Falls Hike
Is hiking the Stairway to Heaven in Oahu on your adventure bucket list? Share in a comment below!
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Don’t forget to check out these other posts:
- Five Great Things to Do on Oahu, Hawaii
- The Ultimate Guide to Solo Hiking
- Road Trip Essentials and Travel Tips
Call me a nerd but I know I wouldn’t be able to do this hike. I would love to see the stairs, though. Is there a way to do this?
Author
Unfortunately, other than this hike and hiking the actual stairs themselves, I don’t think there’s really any other way to see them!